Nikon nikkor 135mm f2 8 ai

nikon nikkor 135mm f2 8 ai

The Nikkor mm f/ Ai-S debuted in , succeeding the Nikkor mm f/ Ai. It's a very popular lens because of its optical quality and. Alvin said it was a good focal length and f could make for some fun shots. I bought it, then took it to Nikon to clean it up which took around a week. Since. Technical Highlight presents in a Nikkor mm f/s telephoto lense: * Excellent choice for action photography and available-light shooting. * Very compact. SPEEDMACHINE 110 Applied to uses the. If you biginner i instead included a GUI used if could i one is identical to is that fully qualified the best-path systems to. This feature firewalls from violation and single location inconvenience, but.

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REVIEW: Nikon Nikkor 135mm f/2.8 AI-S Manual Focus Prime Lens nikon nikkor 135mm f2 8 ai

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I'm tired by kboul. Local train station last night by kboul. With Nikkor mm f2. Cool guy by kboul. Nikkor mmf2. Et pourtant, elle rouille! My digital alter ego. Going to rain by KMrT. Huntingdon Marina, Cambs. Outdoor by Ivan Herrador. Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain www. Nikkor Q Auto mm f2. Shitamachi-tanabata Festival by KMrT. Sorry, we're closed by Ivan Herrador. Fire by Ivan Herrador. Shinbashi -2 by KMrT. Beaten by the Sun by Ed McGowan. Shinbashi by KMrT.

Aloe sunset by Ivan Herrador. Dining out by Michael McLean. Bridges by KMrT. Shibuya Sta. Nishiguchi by KMrT. Favorite blue by ari Woman in the light rain by KMrT. Spring Arrival by wolfives. Nikon Nikkor Ai-smm F2. Black glasses by KMrT. Cloud formation over Mt Macedon.

Sun shower in Melbourne by Michael McLean. River side by KMrT. This was not intentional but I liked the result. Sharpness and contrast look so good but the background has lost much of the washed-out look but still looks smooth. This will turn-off a few people but some people like this look a lot and use their lenses specifically for this. It is all just a matter of taste and creative license.

Here are some pictures that I took in real-life use and these should give you some idea on how this lens really performs. Shooting tests are good but shooting real pictures is better. This was shot near its closest focus distance and this makes the background melt into a wash of colors!

If I can only show you how it looks like in my monitor then it will be obvious to you just how good this lens is. The picture of this Buddhist monk is exquisite to say the least. These pictures were shot wide-open at distances that are commonly used for portraiture. This is great if you want to make your subject look a few years younger. You can see every detail rendered in an exquisite way from the weave of the hat, the strands of her hair and the details of her eyebrow.

The skin still looks nice and smooth, perfect for a portrait lens. The mm focal length is great for isolating your subjects and taking candid photos. The compression is also very good and you can use that for telling stories using framing and composition techniques. This focal length is off for some people and these people usually shoot with the 28,50, lens combo.

This lens is best-paired with a 35mm if you ask me. It will depend on your shooting style and your vision. The following samples were shot with film. It was tested with Fujifilm Industrial and scanned at the lab using their cheap scanner. The background melts into a nice wash of colors.

The bokeh is silky-smooth and the subject isolation is perfect. The details on the megaphone and its cord looks great, it is also worth mentioning that the skin is rendered beautifully. Another picture that was at mid-apertures. This is such a beautiful picture because of the details and colors, it shows that this lens renders colors naturally.

They are saturated but not too much. The previous picture was a bit over-exposed but this one was spot-on. This lens is still kicking and it can be hard to tell that these pictures were shot with a lens that was made more than 4 decades ago. Given the right conditions and skill, this lens is still relevant today. People who are new to manual focusing may find this difficult to use because of the long focal length.

The samples above were shot with film. I will admit that some of them were exposed too much but most of them looked great. I hope that these samples will give you an idea as to how this lens performs with film. I want to make this blog unique and as complete as possible. I hope that this introduction will help give you a better understanding of how to use this lens and why you would want to own one.

This is a serious lens that was made for pros, I will dare say that this lens will out-live most of the people reading this article. Old lenses are made to last forever and this lens will make a very good family heirloom! Should you go out of your way to hunt for this lens? Well, only you can answer that but if you need it then make sure that you buy one that has an Ai-ring installed.

This will allow you to use it with newer Nikon cameras. They cost a bit more but its worth every cent. If you do not want to spend the extra money then you can buy the non-Ai ones and convert it yourself. The resale value and aesthetics will also take a hit and if those matter to you then just get one that has an Ai-ring.

It has a shorter focus throw that will be useful for action shots since you can quickly focus with it because the turn rate is shorter. All of them are solid performers from the first one to the last. Let us now begin with the repair article! Before opening up any lens always look for other people who have done it in Youtube or other sites on the internet. I highly recommend that you also read my working with helicoids post because this is very important and getting it wrong can ruin your day.

If I can force you to read this, I would. It is that important! For more advanced topics, you can read my fungus removal post as a start. This post has a lot of useful information here and there and it will be beneficial for you to read this.

This lens is actually the K New-Nikkor version but the lens is so similar to the Ai and Ai-S versions so you can somewhat use this guide for those versions of this lens as long as you take into account the small changes Nikon has made to improve the engineering of this lens line and cost cutting. Nikkors made in this era tend to be glued in most parts so it can be difficult to remove some parts. The rule is if something is stuck, use alcohol and place it at the threads or seams and wait for it to soften the lacquer or whatever is there.

Optical glass is not as tough as the ones in your windows! It will give you a reference position as you remove parts and reassemble your lens. Always take plenty of notes while the lens is at this position. This is very important and it is just one of those things that you will learn as you go about dismantling lenses.

We will begin by removing the objective from the lens barrel. As usual with Nikkors from this era and class, we start by working on the lens from the front. Begin by extending the retractable hood. Rotate the hood until the hole on the hood lines up with the set screw.

Unscrew it so you can remove the front ring. Now, retract the hood again and remove the front ring. The front ring might be secured by adhesives so try placing a drop of solvent like acetone into the hole for the set screw and let that sit for a couple of minutes. Look at the picture above, the front ring has a hole in it and that is where the set screw was secured. Get a rubber pad that is big enough to cover the front ring and use it to remove the front ring by using friction.

You may want to put your elbow into it because these things can be tough to remove at times. You can now remove the hood from the front barrel. Be careful not to damage the felt on the inner surface of the hood! You can remove the objective after this step but I chose to leave it there as I wanted to see how things were connected inside before I remove it. Now, on to the back of the lens. Remove the screws on the bayonet mount.

These screws are secured with generous amounts of Loctite so be sure that you put a drop of acetone into each screw and let it soften it for half an hour before you attempt removing any of these. You can also use a soldering iron to head these up to soften whatever was used on these. Also be sure to use the proper screwdrivers for the task — it should be JIS.

If you are new to lens repair then I will suggest that you read my article on screws as a primer. Carefully remove the bayonet mount from the rest of the body. You may be tempted and remove the aperture ring at this point but just leave it there for awhile…. The aperture ring is being held by these screws so you have to removes these to get that aperture ring out. This is a non-Ai aperture ring so I had to convert it to Ai. If you want to know how I convert my aperture ring to Ai, head over to my Ai conversion post.

With those screws gone, you can now safely remove the aperture ring. OK, this is how it looks like inside. We would never have seen this picture if we removed the objective earlier. I should have removed the rubber grip earlier but whatever. Simply run a toothpick or any round tipped tool along the inner circumference of the rubber grip to loosen the glue used to hold it to the focusing ring.

Look at the picture and you can see the residue left by the decades-old glue. Remove the grip carefully because you do not want to damage this. The objective is being held by 3 screws near the edge of the barrel. Remove these and you can safely pull the objective out from the barrel. As you can see from the picture a few steps earlier the rear part of this lens is cramped.

Now that the objective is out of the way, you can now easily remove the smaller parts and not worry about damaging anything in the process. To completely dismantle the focusing ring to its bare parts have to remove the scale first by removing the 3 set screws that hold it in place. Be sure not to lose any of these! This grip should be removed as well so unscrew these 3 screws. This sleeve has to go as well.

Again, you have to do the alcohol or solvent routine on this. Now that nothing is in the way, you can now remove the scale from the lens. Be sure not to damage this as this part is thin and easily bent. The focusing ring itself is being secured by these screws…. Remove the screws and the focusing ring can be easily pulled away from the lens barrel.

To remove the front barrel from rest of the body, simply remove these screws that secure it to the helicoids. The front barrel should come off easily…. You can read more about working with helicoids in this article. I made a few marks on the helicoids — one for the infinity position, another to mark the maximum compression of the helicoids. This is my personal lens so I have the liberty to mark it however I want but if this lens belongs to somebody else then I would mark this lightly.

I am not as skilled. Once you are satisfied with your notes and markings, simply unscrew those 2 screws in the previous picture so that you can remove the helicoid key. Be careful with the screws since these are usually epoxied into place. You can tell if it is done with epoxy if you see an epoxy bead or smell the parts for that familiar peanut butter-like smell of epoxy.

Some people will touch this with the tip a soldering iron and let the heat soften up what is there, I simply use solvents to dissolve whatever was used. There will be times when the screws used on the helicoid key will snap due to age or left over glue so be careful! Separate the outer helicoid from the central one and be sure that you mark where they separated. I marked where they separated with a small arrow pointing to the infinity mark.

Now, separate the inner helicoid from the central helicoid and mark where they separated. Look at the picture above to see how I went about marking these positions. This took longer than it should because it has so many parts. This is the reason why some New-Nikkor lenses are heavier, it has more parts than the usual Nikkor made from another era. This is a good thing if quality matters to you. You will also need some special tools to open some of the parts here.

Simply remove the front front elements group by unscrewing it from the objective. Begin by removing the last element on the front elements assembly by unscrewing it. Now, on to the front! Remove the retention ring with a lens spanner and be careful not to scratch the front element! Once the front element is gone, you can now access the second element. The next lens element is being secured by a retention ring.

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